Our advice applies to all forms of engine-powered home and garden equipment. This includes:
Click any of the above links and use the information there to identify your machinery's engine type. There are two types. The approach differs depending on whether your machine has a type 1 or type 2 engine.
Agriculture equipment falls into three categories. Identify your engine type and click the link below to read instructions on using Engine Release to free your seized engine.
We have split our coverage into three areas: two-stroke outboard motors, four-stroke outboard motors and inboard Gas or Diesel engines. Click the links for full instructions on using Engine Release to free seized-up marine engines.
Once you have read these instructions, if technical support is required with your project please email us for advice, we will reply ASAP.
Warning: Read safety warnings on the Engine Release container before continuing. Click here to read the safety information online BEFORE treating outboard motors with Engine Release.
Engine Release will damage paint finishes. A warm water and detergent rinse will neutralize Engine Release.
If you have failed to free up your marine engine previously, even if it's an antique outboard motor, using Mystery Oil, vinegar, water, ATF, diesel fuel, WD40 or others, purchase a large plastic turkey baster and about 24" of clear plastic hose that will tightly push-fit over the end of the baster and still have a small enough outside diameter to pass through your spark plug holes.
It's important to remove all traces of other substances with your baster so they will not dilute the Engine Release when you inject it into your engine.
It’s a good idea not to try and force more hose down the spark plug hole than is required to just touch the top of the piston, so you can be sure to get everything.
Pushing more hose into the cylinder than is required will just force the end of the hose to curl up in the air, defeating the purpose of this exercise. You won't find this advice in your Mercury outboard repair manual!
Tools of choice:
Position the engine horizontally on a solid work bench or on the floor, propeller facing up. Put a few blocks under the prop gear case so the engine cylinders are in a vertical position. The closer the engine's cylinders are to vertical, the better the results. In the event you notice a Cylinder isn’t holding the injected Engine Release it is probably because the piston stopped adjacent to the intake port located in the Cylinder’s Wall, thus allowing any injected E.R. to flow right into the base of the engine, No help when treating the Cylinder. To overcome this problem engine should be rotated away from the side on which the intake port is located, so the E.R. remains in the Cylinder, whether Left or Right. (Above Photo Shows “Hard Right”)
When Engine Release is injected into the cylinder bore/bores, it will flow freely around the engine's pistons, not leaving any dry area’s. Remove engine cover and all spark plugs. If corroded or seized, a few drops of Engine Release on the plug's threads will make frozen plugs easy to remove. (Let it soak in for 15-20 minutes.)
Twice a day, morning and evening, using your Engine Release injector bottle, wet each cylinder with a half oz of Engine Release. Three or four days of this should do it. Let the Engine Release soak in for a week then proceed to the next step.
Now you require a firm support, like a 2" x 4" or 2" x 6", held in a bench vice or an extremely secure engine stand, to clamp the outboard onto so it can be worked on.
If you think you can secure your engine on your bench or stand, you can work on them where they are, it's your choice.
Remove your outboard motor's pull start mechanism.
There are three bolts holding it.You should see the starter ratchet ring and crank nut.
Before you crank your engine, cover the spark plug holes with a rag to keep Engine Release from blowing out of the holes.
WARNING: Keep your face away from this area. Do not use battery start for breaking the engine free.
Put a socket on the engine crank nut and break the engine loose with either an air or an electric powered impact wrench. Don't have one? Rent or borrow it if you have to, it's the only tool for the job!
Hammer blows from the impact wrench set up vibrations in the engine that, with the help of Engine Release, will dislodge oxide crystals from one another, freeing up the engine. Short bursts of the impact (1 or 2 seconds) duration are all that you need. DO NOT TWIST NUT OFF ITS THREADS!
Once the engine starts to turn STOP! Even if it refuses to turn, also STOP! The engine may need more Engine Release and time to free up.
If you don't have access to an impact wrench Rent or Borrow one! Other wise you will damage your engine if you try to free it up with a breaker bar.
Once the engine has started to turn, you can now inject what is left of your Engine Release into your outboard motor's cylinders to wet them and wash out the corrosion residue.
Re-install your pull start. You can now crank the engine using either your pull start or battery start if so equipped. Do not use battery start for breaking engine free. If everything seems to be nice and free and your plugs have a good spark, re-install your spark plugs and engine cover. You can now consider test running your engine.
It's a good time to give your outboard motor's exterior a wash with warm water and detergent to remove all traces of Engine Release. Engine Release will damage paint finishes.
V style Outboard motors aren't any more of a challenge than inline models. The only difference is the amount of Engine Release required to free them up. The procedure is the same otherwise.
These photos for demonstration purposes show you a cylinder bore in a V-style engine. Note 4 oz of Engine Release doesn't reach the top of the piston because the cylinder is inclined photo shows the actual level of the Engine Release as when the engine is installed on the boat. A full Engine Release kit is required to flood the cylinder and reach the high side of the piston. If the same engine is loose or on a rotating stand blocking or rotating the engine so that one bank of cylinder bores are vertical to the ground allows you to work on them in a position thats allows the Engine Release to flow evenly around the piston crown requiring much less Engine Release to do the Job. There is no high side that stays dry.
One can of Engine Release is required per cylinder as a minimum to reach the top of the piston with enough Engine Release to wet everything required. There is no other option, because of the cylinder's angle in the engine block.
Flood each cylinder with Engine Release. Let it soak in for a week, then follow up our step-by-step instructions until your seized marine engine is freed up.
Higher horsepower engines that are on a boat can be leveled out if the boat is on a trailer, by lowering the tongue jack on your trailer. Tilt your outboard up and work on one bank of cylinders at a time. Alternate between banks. Engine Release does not evaporate, so you don't have to worry about your treatment drying out.
Turn your steering so as to position your outboard motor's cylinders in a perfectly vertical position so that when Engine Release is injected into the cylinder bores, it will flow evenly around the piston crowns. This technique can save you removing the engine from your boat.